A Brasserie That Gets It Right

I write this from Paris, on tour with my daughter for her birthday. My good luck is that the cuisine typical of a brasserie—roast chicken, steak frîtes, sausages and steak tartare—is also preferred by my 11-year-old. Brasserie happens to be the French word for brewery as well; clearly a good sign for a brewer on holiday, so Brasserie Lipp,...