It’s a Farce: Vegan Panisse-Stuffed Cabbage at Seabird

Dean Neff’s Seabird, opened in 2021 in Wilmington, is an unabashed ode to North Carolina seafood. His oysters are harvested off the coast of Hatteras Island and from Topsail Sound. His soft shell crabs molt in the state’s estuaries, and his rotating “Shellem” pasta showcases clams, mussels, whelks, and other shellfish brought in by wild harvester Äna Shellem. But non-seafood eaters are welcome at Seabird too, and the vegetable-...