Chefs and Restaurants

When the Line Is Worth the Wait

John Kessler

When I was recently back in Decatur, Ga., the Atlanta suburb where I lived for 20 years, I couldn’t wait to return to Taqueria del Sol. As always, there was a long line in front of this fast-casual restaurant in a converted gas station, but I didn’t mind. I never mind. It moves at a steady clip, and we all order our usual at the counter. (For me that means a fried...