Tacos and Burritos Reign on the West Coast

Liz Grossman

Grilled fish taco

Jolene Fukushima, Loaf & Fish, San Diego 
($12, recipe)

In San Diego, Baja-style fish tacos are iconic bundles of fried fish wrapped in a flour tortilla with cabbage, tomatoes, a creamy sauce and cilantro. But the most important element is the fish, just-caught by fishermen like Kelly Fukushima of Loaf & Fish. For 20 years, he’s sold his catch at the Tuna Harbor...