Fish Tails, Bones, Collars and Even Marrow Make the Meal

Eve Turow Paul

“We respect fish and the fishermen by utilizing everything we can from their ingredients,” veteran sushi chef Mitsunori “Nori” Kusakabe says, speaking to a philosophy woven throughout Japanese industry—from food to construction to clothing. In cooking, bones and heads of fish are not tossed in the trash. “We use techniques like ikejime to drain the blood from a live fish to keep it fresh, or use drying or fermenting to preserve [what a chef cannot immediately use...