Food

David Skinner Puts a Modern Spin on the Native American Three Sisters at Th Prsrv

Liz Grossman

Dinner at Th Prsrv in Houston begins with a pickle plate bursting with foraged ferns, ramps, confit vegetables, edible flowers, and craggy sticks of neem (also known as Indian lilac) that Co-Chef/Co-Owner David Skinner describes as the most bitter thing you’ve probably ever eaten. Called “Memories of My Grandmother’s Root Cellar,” the opening dish served with sunflower butter and nam prik kapi is an homage to Skinner and Co-Chef/Partner “G”...