Abalone, Sand Dabs and Spot Prawns Set California Seafood Apart

Angela Almeida

From spot prawns to sand dabs, indigenous seafood sets California apart.

That’s why Niki Nakayama of N/Naka in Los Angeles sources much of her seafood locally for her tasting menu. She mostly works with fresh catches found only miles away, like black cod, for which she employs the sustainable ike-jime technique to ready the fish for sashimi. “With ike-jime, the spine [of the black cod] is...