Aaron Adams Gets Into the Farm Spirit of Horticultural Cuisine

Molly Each

While some restaurants take departures from the norm one at a time, at Farm Spirit in Portland, Ore., Aaron Adams is doing them all at once. He's created an entirely plant-based, 14-seat restaurant with pre-paid ticketed reservations, a one-service-per-night tasting menu, and a staff comprised entirely of cooks paid a minimum of $15 per hour. Working alongside Ricardo Perez and Timothy Dearing, Adams has his hands in every aspect of what he calls “horticultural cuisine,”...