E.J. Lagasse and Ryan Ratino on How Fine Dining Is Changing

E.J. Lagasse first met Ryan Ratino while the chef was manning his fiery hearth at Jônt, Ratino’s tasting-menu concept above sister restaurant, Bresca. It was Lagasse’s 20th birthday, and he was struck with the convivial vibe of the 17-seat counter, personalized touches, and ’90s hip-hop playing when he walked in. Ratino, 33, was equally in awe of Lagasse, who took over his father’s...