Chefs to Watch 2020: Chris Willis, Pammy’s, Cambridge, Mass.

When I went to Pammy’s two summers ago, my date and I sipped Negronis on draft at the bar before heading to a lively communal table for dinner. We eavesdropped on the couples next to us while digging into asparagus with fried smoked mozzarella dressed in a Meyer lemon citronette and housemade lumache with a gochujang-tinged Bolognese. It was a fun, warm, delicious evening, and while I can’t go back right now...