The Rise of the Japarisiennes

A generation ago, the most prestigious restaurants in Paris tended to be overseen by remarkable French chefs with remarkably French pedigrees, i.e., the Robuchons, Ducasses and Le Squers of the world. But in recent years, there has been a surge in Parisian chefs of Japanese ancestry who have not only racked up accolades but reshaped traditional French fare in original ways.

At Passage 53, a Relais & Châteaux...