Onigiri Gets a Tan at Plant-Based, Caribbean-Focused HAAM in Brooklyn

When Yesenia Ramdass opened Healthy as a Motha (or HAAM, for short) in Brooklyn’s Williamsburg neighborhood, she had very limited knowledge of what the restaurant industry was like prior to the COVID-19 pandemic. “I wasn’t as scared as I should have been,” says Ramdass.

She had been operating out of a commercial kitchen doing pop-ups and offering takeout, but she kept getting emails and...