The Sweet, Sour, Fermented and Funky Allure of Asian Charcuterie

Cha lua, lap cheong and sai ua. Heard of ’em?

Even if the names don’t ring a bell, you’ve likely eaten these Vietnamese, Chinese and Thai sausages, perhaps tucked into bánh mì, slivered in fried rice or served with lettuce for wrapping. They’re far from household names, especially when compared to better-known European counterparts like pâté de campagne, finocchiona and bratwurst. But the genre of East and Southeast Asian charcuterie is...