Judy Rodgers on Chicken and the Glory of Le Goût Du Revenez-Y

You spent a year with the Troisgros family in France as a high school exchange student. How did that shape your perspective on food?

In every way possible. I had come from the Midwest in the 1970s from a family where food wasn’t a big deal, and there I was living in a restaurant/hotel that was routinely called the best in the world; it was my home. I lived upstairs and everything I ate was...