In the Birthplace of Mentaiko, Roe Is a Star Ingredient in This Dirty Martini

If you’ve been to Fukuoka, Japan, you’ve had—or at least spotted—mentaiko, pollock roe cured with salt and chile pepper. It’s a little bit spicy, briny, and packed with umami. Typically served as a side dish or a topping for noodles and rice, mentaiko took me by surprise when I discovered it in a martini at Bay, a swanky bar atop The Ritz-Carlton, Fukuoka. I’m always pursuing savory,...