How Joshua Pinsky Builds Subtle Layers Behind the Scenes at NYC's Claud

Most chefs try to control the air and puff in their mille-feuille. Not chef Joshua Pinsky, who wanted the mushroom and Whitney cheese mille-feuille at restaurant Claud to push the bounds of height and flakiness. “I wanted it to be as light and puffy as possible, so when we bake it, we don’t restrict it. When it’s done, it puffs up like seven inches and then falls over and becomes...