This Sugar Kelp-Wrapped Salmon Is a Portal to Pacific Northwest Nature

When I spoke to Grant Rico last week, he had just returned from collecting sea water to make house salt for Seabird on Washington’s Bainbridge Island. And at least once a week the chef and Seabeck, Wash. native plunges into the nearby bay to harvest seaweed, including sea lettuce, dulse, bladderwrack, sargassum, red spaghetti, and various kelp varieties. 

Before Seabird, Rico cooked at SingleThread...