Food
Where There's Smoke, There's Root Vegetables at NYC's Ruffian
January 22, 2023 10:36am
Steven Shockley has used smoke to coax Parmesan notes out of celery root, salted caramel flavor out of sugary sunchokes, and umami out of beets, all from a 372-square-foot restaurant. “The kitchen is 6 x 4 feet, with two induction burners and a convection oven,” says the chef of (mostly) vegetarian wine bar Ruffian, which serves around 100 people a night in New York City’s East Village.
Shockley...