Calvin Eng’s Step-by-Step Stuffed Trout at Bonnie’s in Brooklyn

Calvin Eng grew up in Bay Ridge, Brooklyn. On a good day, that’s more than an hour on the subway (with a transfer) from his hit Cantonese-American restaurant, Bonnie’s, in Williamsburg. Long before North Brooklyn became a murderers’ row of Michelin-starred restaurants, young Eng was hanging out in his family’s kitchen. Occasionally, that meant scraping fish flesh and painstakingly pulling pin bones—for fun and for dinner too....