Miami Chef Pablo Zitzmann Packs the Totality of His Training into a Dumpling

Cantonese har gow is a fickle dumpling; even the temperature of the kitchen affects the dough. The wrapper is sticky, making it hard to shape and pleat, and most restaurants buy the dough premade, according to Pablo Zitzmann, chef/owner of Miami’s Zitz Sum.

“Since I’m the guy with a lot of chips on his shoulder, I would want to master a dumpling that is so hard to make,”...