How This Barista Expresses Himself Through Coffee Omakase

Ryan Castelaz likes to test the bounds of just how far is too far. Last summer, guests to his “Growing Up”-themed coffee omakase drank “Infancy,” a combination of peach- and cinnamon-infused cold brew coffee, blueberry buckle milk, bourbon barrel-aged maple syrup, and floral bitters. Castelaz served the drink in plastic baby bottles whose nipples had been trimmed down to enable flow; he stuck a lemon-fennel lollipop through the nipple’s hole.

“You will never...