At This Portland Steakhouse, Protein is Not the Priority

One of Garrett Benedict’s favorite dishes at his Portland, Ore., restaurant, G-Love, is Mr. G’s Crispy Pork, a riff on the fried pork belly he and his wife had at famous crispy pork storefront Mr. Joe in Bangkok. He roasts skin-on pork belly until juicy and tender with a crunchy exterior of cracklin’, and serves it with a blistered heirloom tomato broth, fresh cherry tomatoes, and a raspberry-horseradish relish....