Chefs to Watch 2018: Nicholas Goellner, The Antler Room, Kansas City

I was sitting at the bar at Kansas City’s Antler Room last fall on a solo trip to the city when my neighbor’s food caught my eye. Slices of smoked brisket were served with an array of accompaniments—Arctic char roe, sour cream, red sauerkraut, pickles, and peach mostarda, plus a side of rye-caraway naan. Since I was dining alone, I hadn’t ordered the large-...