Bukharan Cuisine Thrives at New York City's Tandoori

A tandoor has no racks or dials; you operate it as if it were a volcano. So when the bakers at Tandoori Food & Bakery want to check the oven’s temperature, they reach into its yawning mouth and feel around.

“You know someone’s a baker if one of their arms has a lot less hair than the other,” Jacob Shalomov...