How Oaxacan Food is Winning Over American Chefs

"I always say Oaxacan food is sort of like soul food,” says Bricia Lopez, partner in L.A.’s Guelaguetza. “It’s in the south, really deep in Mexico, and there are a lot of tones of smokiness from chiles and spices in our moles. It’s about mastering the art of balancing flavors so they...