Tangy Ranch and Lemon Brighten Redfish Karaage at Houston's Riel

At Houston's new Riel, executive chef/co-owner Ryan Lachaine mashes up French-Canadian cuisine, his Ukrainian heritage, and inspirations from the restaurant's Texas location. That sounds like there's a lot going on, and there is, but flavors flow seamlessly across the meal, from borscht to tourtiere to Gulf Fish karaage.

The latter dish uses red fish, which is served in bite-sized...