The Untrendy Allure of French Bistros

A few months ago, one of Chicago’s most beloved chefs was killed in a car accident. Jean-Claude Poilevey wasn’t nominated for Beard awards; he wasn’t particularly cutting edge or fashionable. But a lot of the people who were those things went to his bistros, Le Bouchon and La Sardine, to eat. You could always count on spotting a few chefs and industry folks there on...