At San Francisco's Swan Oyster Depot, the Sancimino Family Keeps Tradition Alive

You visit San Francisco’s Swan Oyster Depot for the history, for the fresh fish, oysters and crab, to see if it’s worth all the fuss and lines wrapping around the block, and for the chatter with whichever member of the Sancimino family waits on you. Swan Oyster Depot might be called no-frills, but the just-off-the-boat product offers all the luxury you need, and it explains the restaurant/fish market’s sterling reputation and...