Look Past the Pupu Platter for the Next Level of Hawaiian Cuisine

Carolyn Jung

Ed Kenney of Honolulu’s Town remembers the moment distinctly, when GQ food writer Alan Richman visited his then-fledgling restaurant in 2006 and uttered the razor-sharp words that pierced Kenney's heart like a knife.

“He said, ‘Fifteen years ago, all we were talking about was the Pac-Rim Asian-fusion food happening here—long before Momofuku ever came onto the scene in New York. Now here we are,...