Go for the Burn to Coax Deeper Flavors Out of Fruits and Vegetables

Matt Kirouac

When life gives you burnt lemons (or carrots, beets and leeks), make charcoal ash. Or, char your produce on purpose to add another level of flavor to sauces, seasonings and more.

Frank McClelland has been cooking with fruit and vegetable ash for years at his Boston restaurants, L’Espalier and Sel de la Terre. He started using excess produce, blackening everything from beets and pears to carrots and...