Burnt Salts, Oils and Creams Give Dishes a Bite

Danny Bonvissuto

Though plenty of people are intrigued by scorched flavors, no one wants a big mouthful of burnt. So chefs across the country are using salts, oils and creams to carry those notes to the table without overpowering their food. Charred onion ash oil gives roasted carrots a meaty mouthfeel. Charred cherrywood salt adds grilled notes to swordfish that never touched an open flame. And burnt cream teases out subtly sweet flavors in caviar. There’s a new...