The Return of Game Charcuterie

Peter Gianopulos

During the second half of the 20th century, the American table experienced a troubling case of amnesia. It forgot, either knowingly or unconsciously, about its agrarian roots—about the rich selection of game-based charcuterie that once gilded butcher shops and dinner tables across the nation. Mild proteins quickly became the norm, ushering in an age of feedlot chickens and corn-fed beef. The goal, above all, was not to offend. Not to be too bold. And as a...