Puerto Rico Combines the Best of America, Spain and the Caribbean for a Cuisine of Its Own

Chandra Ram

Stroll down the Ruta del Lechón—the winding dirt and gravel road through Guavate, in the mountains south of San Juan—take a deep whiff, and you’ll breathe in the sweet smell of roasting pork. Guavate is where Puerto Ricans gather on weekends and holidays to celebrate lechón asado, their national dish. Amid the carnival atmosphere, walls of tchotchkes, and children dancing to the live music pouring out onto the road are dozens of lechoneras,...