The Luxury of Learning at Gastronomika

In early October, I spent a half day with Elena Arzak in San Sebastián. Years before I had helped coordinate a visit to New York for the Spanish chef, and she returned the hospitality by introducing me to her peers at a gathering of presenters for the 25th Anniversary of Gastronomika, Spain’s original culinary conference. From there, we taxied to Arzak, the three Michelin-starred...