Head Cheese Creates Something Special from Scraps

Emilie Zanger

Hundreds of years before the whole-animal cooking movement led chefs to embrace less favored cuts of meat, French cooks during the Middle ages combined scraps of long-simmered meat from the head of an animal in a terrine known as fromage de tête. Today, we know it as head cheese. While the word “fromage” eventually came to mean cheese due to its origins in the Latin word “forma,” a wooden box that was used to compress curds, the word...