It All Started with a Tuna Bloodline Skewer at CudaCo.

Chef Shaun Brian Sells and I met early in our careers, and, over the years, we’ve eaten some wild meals together (among them: chugging hot sauce late-night at a diner and devouring the stinkiest fermented tofu imaginable). So when I showed up to CudaCo., Sells’ seafood market/restaurant on Johns Island near Charleston, I figured I’d eat something offbeat (this guy has nothing if not an...