The Industry’s Latest Pivot: Reconcepting

Last April, I got word that one of my favorite Philly chefs, Nick Elmi, was reformatting service at his decade-old, Laurel. Tastings menus were out, and a new wine bar era and à la carte menu were in. It made sense to me post-pandemic, and I didn’t think much about it until I noticed a similar theme playing out at restaurants across the country. Over and over again, in Plate...