Roadside Kitsch, Green Chile Cheeseburgers, and Community Keep Sparky's Shining in Hatch, N.M.

Last year got off to a rosy start for Sparky’s Burgers, BBQ and Espresso, the kitschy roadside joint in Hatch, N.M., whose green chile cheeseburgers have amassed a cult following. First came the James Beard Awards nomination for Best Chef Southwest in February 2020, then a slew of “best burger” accolades in quick succession from national publications. Pre-pandemic, the ascendant Sparky’s was drawing up to 600 daily customers, who were passing through...