Geoff Davis Gets Back to His Roots at Oakland’s Burdell

Warm ambers and pinks set the sepia tone in Geoff Davis’ Oakland restaurant, Burdell, located on the city’s iconic Telegraph Avenue. To step inside is to settle into another funkier, more soulful era. A gallery wall of family portraits greets diners, and a vintage stereo playing James Brown, Roy Ayers, and Willie Hutch softly crackles on the sideboard. Vintage Corelle plates thrifted by Davis feature patterns of butterflies and blossoms from...