Why Chef Kwame Onwuachi Tapped Baker Bryan Ford to Make Coco Bread for Tatiana

Caroline Hatchett

Yes, chef. That’s how Bryan Ford answered a phone call from Kwame Onwuachi this summer. Onwuachi, chef/owner of New York City’s Tatiana, needed coco bread—six days a week, starting July 1—to accompany a short rib pastrami suya inspired by his childhood years spent in Nigeria. 

For Ford, who like Onwuachi was raised in the Bronx, the timing couldn’t have been better....