This Whitefish Scrapple Symbolizes a Beloved Philly Diner's New Era

Alexandra Jones

When Chad Todd took over Sulimay’s Restaurant in 2016, longtime owner Lucretia Sulimay stuck around the homey diner in Philadelphia’s Fishtown neighborhood for a time to ease the transition. When she put her name on the building in 2002, the historically white, working-class neighborhood was already changing as artists moved into disused warehouses and urban farms reclaimed vacant lots. By the time Todd took the reins, gentrification had transformed...