Unlocking Flavor in Dry-Aged Fish

Wrench & Rodent Seabasstropub in Oceanside, Calif., might be one of the few restaurants where the bustling sushi bar is upstaged by two large meat lockers visible from the dining room. Stocked with a regular rotation of whole yellowtail, striped bass, salmon, and bonito, as well as broken-down carcasses, collars, belly loins, tails, and heads, it’s easy to see why. 

During service, Chef Davin Waite and his team make...