Ramen Goes Global in These Takes on the Soup

The spate of ramen shops that have cropped up across America the past decade or so have focused on turning out expert bowls of tonkotsu, shio, tsukemen and other traditional styles. Now, chefs are taking ramen in new, unexpected directions with inspiration from cuisines both global and local.

At Philadelphia’s Cheu Noodle Bar, Ben Puchowitz serves brisket ramen...