Tlayudas Travel from Oaxaca to Puebla at Tiny’s Cantina in Brooklyn

Cenobio Canalizo grew up in Puebla, Mexico, but by the age of 12, he had tasted his way through the country. “I traveled with my parents, who sold corn, beans, flowers, fruit, and seeds throughout Oaxaca, Mexico City, Toluca, all these little towns,” he recalls. “We ate on the street, so I got to try all types of foods.” He remembers the barbacoa with consommé (his favorite breakfast that later inspired one of his signature tacos), tamales,...