Three Chefs on How They Pull Off Paella at Their Restaurants

“Valencia paella is like Champagne,” says Danny Lledó, chef/owner of Michelin-starred Xiquet in Washington, D.C., referencing Spain’s hyper-regional national rice dish. For Lledó, sweet paprika in the sofrito and saffron-spiked stock are obligatory building blocks. Having spent one-third of his life in Spain—Dénia to be exact, one hour south of Valencia—his...