Stuffed, Fried, and Smothered with Aioli, the Best Peruvian Snacks are Savored by Hand

Lesley Balla

From Peru’s street carts to upscale restaurants, good things come in fried, handheld packages all over the country, via picarones (puffy sweet potato doughnuts), flaky empanadas, two-bite croquettes, papas rellenas, and more.

You wouldn’t think Peru’s flaky, golden starters would translate stateside in a suburban gas station setting, but head to Fairview Lounge in Fairview Heights, Ill., and papas rellenas...