Spread the Love with Housemade French Butters

Cate Huguelet

French-leaning chefs are turning their attention to butter with an enthusiasm that recalls Escoffier’s beurre-saturated cuisine classique. Far from a mere means to nutty roux and rich emulsions, though, butter is being elevated through in-house culturing and churning, transforming it into a menu highlight in its own right. Derik Watson of Royal Oak, Mich.’s Bistro 82 cultures crème fraîche...