From Soy Sauce to MSG, All the Substitutes Worth Their Weight in Salt

Working on the cookbook Coastal: 130 Recipes from a California Road Trip with Scott Clark, chef/owner of Dad’s Luncheonette in Half Moon Bay, Calif., I was struck by his use of an ingredient that’s uncommon in American restaurant cooking: shiro shoyu, or white soy sauce. Made with more wheat and a shorter fermentation time than regular soy sauce, it’s rounder and softer. But, for him, it’s...