Food

Snack on Bao, Lumpia and Other Filipino Pulutan

Maisie Wilhelm

“I realized what pulutan was when I was growing up in the Philippines and my brothers’ wives cooked while we sat and drank,” says Cliff Wharton, chef of Urban Heights in Bethesda, Md. The women would put out a spread of finger foods, including “beef skewers, always lumpia, small plates with rice and sisig”—essentially, small snacks to graze on as part of a traditional Filipino meal, or to accompany...