Smoke is the Perfect Accent to Seafood

Seafood and flames go together—just think about clambakes and oyster roasts. But you don’t need to be on the beach to achieve the same flavors. Chefs are firing seafood in their kitchens to add smokiness to shellfish. At Salt Wood Kitchen & Oysterette in Marina, Calif., David Baron grills oysters topped with kimchi butter, scallions and pork sausage; sardines with herbs and capers; and even abalone.

“We...